There’s something highly restorative about a visit
to Strathpeffer. Here in its sheltered glen, 25 miles NW of Inverness in the Scottish Highlands, the air is pure and sweet, the pace of life gentle, the
views stunning. But
the wholesomeness of the atmosphere shouldn’t be a surprise. Strathpeffer was
once a bustling spa town of such popularity and elegance that it rivalled even
Harrogate. Between 1870 and 1939, it was one of the most popular health resorts
in Europe.
Among its famous visitors were Mrs
Pankhurst, Sir Ernest Shackleton, Aleister Crowley and Robert Louis Stevenson to name just a few.
It’s a curious place. Huge stone-built villas and hotels peep coyly from behind lush curtains of shrubbery and trees. Much of the
architecture here is so odd that the town could almost be mistaken for an
alpine resort. And the veil separating the Victorian era and the present day often
seems remarkably thin.
Strathpeffer’s heyday may be long since past, but
it’s still a popular stop on the tourist trail. Some kind of spell hangs over
the town however because even its coach loads of summer visitors barely stir a
ripple in its tranquillity.
A few seem unprepared for its quiet, quirky
charms – you’ll invariably meet someone walking back from the town square with
a bewildered look on their face. Where are the shops? The sights? The
excitement? What can you do here?
Strathpeffer's main square |
Me, I think Strathpeffer's a small slice of
heaven. And most other visitors apparently think the same – they come back year
after year. It’s all here if you look - the tiny museum of childhood, the
historical exhibits at the spa pump room, the little craft and eco friendly
shops, the wee Art Deco cafe that screens silent movies on its back wall, and the
chemist’s shop with its window display of Victorian dispensary
paraphernalia.
All this, and the Strathpeffer and District
Pipe Band performing in the square every Saturday (May-September). What more
could you ask for!
The waters of the sulphurous springs can still
be sampled - I haven’t tried them so can’t report on their palatability. But I
could hazard a guess! They’re the most sulphurous in the UK, hence their
one-time popularity. Discovered in the 1770s, they were believed beneficial for
digestive and kidney complaints, heart conditions, rheumatism and skin
disorders.
The pavilion was used as an American
naval hospital during WWI
|
There are actually five mineral wells in Strathpeffer,
containing both sulphur and iron. At one time, guests would be offered water
from one tap, which was then topped up by a guide with water from another tap. As
the iron and sulphur mixed, the water would turn inky black. The same change
could be seen before and during storms. It was said that the devil himself
washed in Strathpeffer, but I assume that was meant tongue in cheek!
**An interesting aside on the subject of the devil and Strathpeffer - infamous occultist, magician and poet Aleister Crowley, ‘the wickedest man in the world’ and self-styled Great Beast 666, met his wife Rose here in Strathpeffer in 1903. She was engaged to someone else – an arranged marriage that she was eager to avoid. Instead she eloped to marry Crowley in the neighbouring town of Dingwall, after only a short acquaintance.**
**An interesting aside on the subject of the devil and Strathpeffer - infamous occultist, magician and poet Aleister Crowley, ‘the wickedest man in the world’ and self-styled Great Beast 666, met his wife Rose here in Strathpeffer in 1903. She was engaged to someone else – an arranged marriage that she was eager to avoid. Instead she eloped to marry Crowley in the neighbouring town of Dingwall, after only a short acquaintance.**
Café tables at Strathpeffer Railway Station |
The railway arrived at nearby Dingwall in 1862.
High Society began descending on Strathpeffer for ‘the season’ and its
popularity soared, only to wane between the World Wars. The station in
Strathpeffer opened in 1885. The line was closed for good in 1946.
Strathpeffer Railway Station |
Green Kite fair trade shop, Strathpeffer Station |
Highland Museum of Childhood |
Come for a stroll with me through the pavilion grounds. I
recommend that you take your time, breathe deeply and relax. At some point if
you’re lucky there may be an eerie lull in the already sleepy traffic. An
unexpected feeling of serenity may descend upon you. And if you listen hard enough, I
swear you’ll hear the conversations of the ghosts as they stroll by. The gardens are now semi-wild and thick with moss, Strathpeffer’s
grandeur has faded, but its ghosts are still as elegant as any you could ever hope
to meet.
Chairs at the bowling green |
NB I highly recommend visiting Strathpeffer in
the tourist season, as many of the local businesses either reduce their opening
hours or remain closed during the quieter winter months.